The Exumas

Well it has been some time since we've had either the time or the quality internet connection necessary for updates.  We've made progress, but not as much as planned.  Some engine problems, more stabilizer problems have plagued us over this leg of the voyage.  In this lifestyle we've chosen, one learns to not rush things and to go with the flow; tackling each challenge as they arise and enjoying life whenever possible.

Sunday; 3/17/13 1030 Abacos to Eleutheria

We headed south out of the Abacos toward Nassau, New Providence Cay.  This voyage was going to be overnight, timing our arrival for daylight, the next morning, just off Nassau's harbor entrance.  Seas were not bad, 2-3 foot long swells.  A constant NE wind helped us on the way, but made extended deck time a bit uncomfortable.  As we continued south and I researched Nassau's available anchorages and docking fees in the cruising guide, we realized that our choices were limited and a bit expensive for our taste.  A few hours out of the Sea of Abaco we made the decision to alter course slightly and bypass Nassau, instead heading for a nearer channel (Fleeming Cut) between Nassau on New Providence Cay and Spanish Wells at the northern tip of the Eleuthera Cays.  This would shorten our time in the open Atlantic and cut a day off our our travels south.

Sunrise off Fleeming Cut

Monday; 3/18/13 0330 hrs.  Fleeming Cut to Ship Channel Cay

Arrived on station just off Fleeming Cut.  Seas not bad, but wind at 10 to 15 kts. and of course, it was DARK!  So we puttered back and forth awaiting daylight.  As the sun rose we headed in through the wide cut and began our slow and cautious 24 mile crossing of the shallow, coral head infested, Middle Ground area.  

The sea was a beautiful aqua color with ominous dark spots.  In spite of the charts showing a straight line from point A to B, this area took careful attention and we found ourselves weaving back and forth to avoid coral heads;  Our GPS track later looked like a drunken sailor's path back to his ship from a night in town.  

Ruins of what appear to be Ship Channel Lighthouse
(The charts show it but it is not in service)

Finally, at 1330 hours we made to to Ship Channel Cay, at the northern edge of the Exuma Sound and found an Anchorage in the lee of the Cay.  Dropped anchor, had an early dinner and I caught up on my sleep.

Tuesday, 3/19/13 Ship Channel Cay to Warderick Wells Cay

We headed back past Ship Channel Cay and into the Exuma Sound, heading south toward  George Town.  We knew we could not make the entire journey in one day so started researching the many-many anchorage options as we motored south.  Engine and stabilizers working fine. About 1300 I noted that the engine RPMs were not stable, a symptom I recognized as a fuel problem, either not enough fuel or air in the lines.  I quickly went below decks to check on things and found the stabilizer system was dangerously hot and the engine room itself was extremely warm.  About this time the engine quit and wouldn't start.
We spent an uncomfortable hour bobbing about as I worked away in the engine room.  Shutting down stabilizers so they could cool off and trying to change the fuel filters.  I found that I could not remove the primary fuel filter from the engine.  Even with a good filter wrench, the thing was so tight, and so warm that it would not budge!  Finally, after bleeding fuel lines we got the main started again and altered course toward the Exuma Land & Sea Park, and the Warderick Wells Cay which housed Park Headquarters and several nice sheltered mooring fields.  

Arrluk "on the ball" in Warderick Wells Emerald Cay Mooring Field

We arrived at about 1830 hours and had to teach/demonstrate to the rest of Crew Arrluk how to snag and moor to a mooring ball.  What seemed so simple to the Captain, and in spite of detailed instructions, somehow the concept eluded the wife and kids. After a few comical but stressful minutes, several attempts, and a final, "OK, let me SHOW you since you cannot seem to understand instructions,"  (a comment made, quickly regretted) we found ourselves safely moored in a beautiful serene national park, surrounded by other boats swinging on their mooring balls.
As our engine room and equipment were very hot, and crew exhausted, we had dinner, opened up some deck plates into the mechanical spaces to allow them to cool and fell into bed for a good nights rest.

Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park Headquarters

Wednesday, 3/20/13.  Repair and Exploration Day

Today was a down day for mechanical service and repair as well as exploring the national park while securely moored.  

The First Mate enjoying a little dip to cool off

I again tried to remove the primary fuel filter to change it, but even cooled, could not get it off with any of the several filter wrenches aboard.  Unwilling to punch a hole in the filter (the old auto mechanic's trick) I elected to wait until I could find another wrench big enough (I just know it's aboard somewhere ... but where is it?)  or get some assistance from another strong set of hands.

Inspecting the stabilizers' hydraulic system I found that the sacrificial anodes (AKA Zincs) in the heat exchanger were shot, and as I removed them to refresh the zinc portions, out came crud and critters ... I'd just found the source of our problem. Disused for years and likely not serviced since installation other than a zinc change occasionally, crud and marine growth had accumulated in the hydraulic heat exchanger causing it to clog and no longer function.  Since we had no phone service and our pay per use satellite internet provided by the park was extremely limited (the 100 Mb allowance was used up by the kids before I got back to the boat to send an e-mail!) we were on our own on this one.  

Warderick Wells Cay view southwest
Arrluck Moored (Center Right)

We elected to continue our trim without stabilization until I could repair the exchanger or a replacement could be found.  Inspection of the engine raw water pump and cooling system found nothing needing repair.  The engine had been running at its proper temperature, so we concluded the heat from the stabilizers was our likely culpret.

On the Beach at Warderick Wells Cay

Warderick Wells was a special place, so we took the time to dingy to park headquarters, and do some hiking on the small island.  It was very hot, so our hike ended up being shorter than planned, but we still got some good photos and needed exercise on shore.

Thursday, 3/21/13  Warderick Wells Cay - Compass Cay

We departed Warderick Wells Cay, again with intent to try to make it to Georgetown, the big city in this part of the world.  There we should be able to find hoses, pumps, clamps, switches and wiring that we may need to rectify the stabilizer situation.  Two hours out, I again noted the early symptoms of fuel issues; a slight variation of engine RPMs without modifying the throttle settings.  We made a quick decision to seek shelter at one of the Cays and diagnose this problem, since we now knew it was not related to the stabilizer problems.

Compass Cay Marina from Arrluk's aft deck

As we headed into the Conch Cut and the shallow protected waters, we were hailed on the VHF by John and Paulette Lee of the Seamantha, a new 58' Kadey Krogen who'd seen us headed in.  They recommended the marina they were staying in, nearby. I decided I would be much more comfortable working in the cramped engine room with a marina and power and phones and such, so we headed in. By 1330 we found ourselves in an absolutely stunning marina known as Compass Cay Marina.  Our boat was on an end dock, known by the locals as "The Aquarium."  

"Pet" Nurse Sharks awaiting feeding time

We saw big nurse sharks swimming around under the boat, loggerhead turtles swimming by occasionally, some immense rays of undetermined species drifting slowly along the bottom just under the boat and beautifully colored “tropical fish” of the type folks have in their aquariums, only about 5 times the size of those. The small marina is extremely well protected, and owned and operated by a small family.  We were welcomed with a cold beer from the cooler and an invitation to a pot luck dinner on Friday night, should we still be there.

Once safely docked, utilizing the largest pipe wrench we had on board, (yes, I finally found it!) I finally got the primary fuel filter off, cussing the last mechanic I had work on the engine the whole time.  I found it was choked with crud.  A new one installed and the secondary fuel polishing system's two filters changed, we had the fuel system back to normal. The culprit was obviously the recent trips we'd made without our stabilizers working.  The agitation caused the fuel tanks to shake loose all the crud that was growing on the sides and baffles, putting it back into suspension within the fuel and, subsequently, through the filters and engine.  As the filters get clogged more quickly than normal, pressure increased and finally starved the engine of fuel.  Additional fuel filters immediately went on our shopping list, as we have two other tanks that we hadn't begun to use fuel from, certainly they are in similar condition.  I used the opportunity to change the engine oil and filters as it was about time for that as well.

Still with no telephone service, and with limited internet and the kids strictly prohibited from using it, I was able to start an e-mail dialog with the stabilizer gurus in Ft Lauderdale.  They did some research for me and determined it would be highly unlikely that in George Town I would find another exchanger to replace the clogged one, so we ordered up a newer (larger) one to replace the old one, and had it shipped to George Town, a trip of several days. Our shopping list of of filters and other replacement parts was growing and we hoped we could find a CAT dealer or parts house in Georgetown that had what we needed. 

As we stayed at Compass Cay, another cruising question was answered:  I always wondered why those big fancy yachts had underwater lights at the back of their boats.  We now understand completely.  The first night in/over "The Aquarium" we are treated to an evening underwater nature show courtesy of our neighbors’ underwater lights.  It seemed that at night, a whole different group of fish emerged, but seeing them this close was truly amazing.

Lobster Dinner; it comes no fresher!

With our fuel system issues resolved (we HOPE!) and parts on the way for our stabilizers, the promise of a potluck dinner, with fresh Caribbean Lobster and Conch from the marina staff was too much to resist.  We elected to stay the night and participate.  

Bountiful Sea Harvest being unloaded

After the arrival of the Marina staff fishing expedition, their offloading of dozens of Conch and still twitching lobsters, and the subsequent "feeding of the pet sharks" that followed the cleaning of the catch, We watched a stunning sunset surrounded by other cruisers munching of freshly caught deep fried lobster, conch fritters, fish, and I enjoyed my first Conch Salad.  Little did I know that Conch Salad is actually a version of cevishe', and this local stuff was darn spicy, and good!

Saturday, 3/23/13:  Compass Cay - Little Darby Cay

0900 found us pulling out of Compass Cay, heading back south toward George Town.  The engine was now running like a top and since the seas were calm and we were going with the swells, rocking limited and tolerable.  The chartplotter put us in George Town harbor at 1930 hours, a little late to be negotiating the shallows of the harbor and docking at a marina, so we intentionally cut the day short to assure when we did arrive in George Town it would be with good light to see.  We found a little secluded anchorage nestled behind Little Darby Cay. 

We pulled into the anchorage that already had 2 sailboats in it after abandoning our first site a mile north, due to no wind or wave protection. One of the sail boaters told us to follow the channel a bit farther and we'd find a deep hole. We did, but ended up, after three anchor sets, setting our 4th with 2 anchors. It had good wave protection in the little pocket, but the wind funneled through at about 20 Kts. Sounds bad, but when it is humid and in the 80s the "breeze" feels good. The wind cocked us sideways in the channel.

We BBQ'd some pork loins and had a nice dinner, then I retired to the forward hold to diagnose why our waste discharge pump was not working (as of that morning we could no longer use the toilets, which the First Mate reminded me was one of the adventure's rules.)

I ended up covered in ... stuff, walking in slime, replacing all hoses and cleaning out all valves. I finished the rebuild about 11 PM, but we couldn't pump out there, we had to wait for today's offshore voyage.  When I emerged from below decks and went out on the aft deck to rinse off stuff I found that our stern was aground and the swim deck was 2 feet above the water level. The bow of the boat remained afloat, so we spent an interesting low tide evening with the boat tilted forward several degrees. I didn't have to worry about anchor drift at least! Unfortunately, I did worry about how to get us off at high tide at 0615 this morning.

Sunday, 3/23/13.  Little Darby Cay - George Town, Exumas

I was up at 0500 the next morning, doing system checks, cleaning the weeds and gunk out of the raw water sea strainers, stowing stuff and raising the second anchor by hand. We had just enough light at 0630 to raise the other and meander out of the area carefully following our incoming breadcrumb track on the chartplotter, as it was still too dark to see beneath the surface.  Fortunately, the tide raised us right off the bottom.  

My pump repairs worked once 3 miles offshore, although the initial 'sludge' discharge tripped the pump breaker several times before the 'plug' made it overboard. From then on pumping went as it should. 90 minutes later, we had 'gotten a real load off our minds,' and many hundreds of pounds lighter. I still have to do some cleaning up of the forward space to get rid of the residual smell, but I'm no longer up sh** creek with the First Mate.

We enjoyed an uneventful trip to George Town arriving in the early afternoon on a blustery hot and sunny day. As it was Sunday everything but the bars and restaurants were closed. Marina staff advised that my FedEx will go to the local market across from the marina, and I will have to check with them each day to see if it's come in..We made and enjoyed our first umbrella drink and BBQ some short ribs...  As I sipped my rather stout coconut rum punch, I vowed to someday start relaxing and enjoying "retirement."

Exuma Yacht Club

Monday, 3/24/13 to Present.  Exuma Yacht Club George Town - Awaiting Parts

We are staying in the Exuma Yacht Club.  Fancy name but not a fancy place; functional, friendly and highly convenient, as the market is across the street and liquor store at the end of the dock.

Much busier place than any we've seen so far in our travels in the Bahamas. It is a big harbor and there are hundreds of boats anchored all over the place.  Being docked near the market and the channel to the market's dingy dock, dinghies are going by constantly.

Regatta area of Elizabeth Harbor, George Town

Monday was boat cleaning day and going to the market.  We also learned that FedEx packages take 4 to 5 days from the states and go to the airport.  There, an enterprising cab driver picks them up and brings them to the local market where we pick them up and pay a small delivery charge.  

Tuesday we explored a bit and took a cab to the napa store where we got their last oil filter and last two air filters that fit our engine, as well as other stuff like 5 gallons of new hydraulic oil to refresh the stabilizer hydraulic system.

Wednesday I spent most of the day in the below deck spaces: Cleaning the forward hold with some bleach to rid ourselves of the last of the stench down in the Macy space going through boxes rounding up clamps and such for "McGyvering" our new, larger, heat exchanger, and wrestling the various hoses and pipes off the old one.  I Finally got the old one out to find that most of the water tubes were clogged up and the outgoing hose was choked closed with little bitty Oyster shells.

New Hydraulic Heat Exchanger

I took my brothers' advice and heated up a gallon of vinegar and started soaking the exchanger in one our taller Tupperware containers.  I also found a jar, loaded it with warm vinegar, and stuck the end of the 'exhaust' hose that was connected to the exchanger down in the jar to soak overnight.

Late Wednesday afternoon a cab driver dropped our parts package off at the marina and collected $15 for his trouble ( cab fare to the airport is $35 each way).  We celebrated with an early dinner out at a local cafe and returned so I could resume my install efforts.  I managed to fit the new one in the same space and get it sturdily mounted, but found that because it was fatter and about 2 inches longer than the old one, one of the hydraulic lines would not reach, no matter how I held my mouth, cussed at it or stretched the thing ( a joke, as there ain't no stretching a high pressure hydraulic line).  So, after a few beers I went to bed late awaiting inspiration or divine intervention.  

Unfortunately, neither arrived and I awoke at 4:00 this Thursday morning and couldn't get back to sleep due to the brain trying to figure it out..  Solution? Either some additional pipe fittings (bronze, of course because of the sea water) or a new hose.  I found on the Internet two places that do hydraulic lines in the Bahamas, one in Nassau, which was closer, and the second in Freeport.

You just can't stretch these hoses!

At 8AM I was on the phone.  The Nassau guy never answered the phone, but the Freeport company did.  Multiple calls, e-mails and photos back and forth and they had my new hose made up and ready for shipping by noon.  Unfortunately that was after the plane had left for the day.  

Well, the rest of the story, after a number of calls we learned that Bahamas takes Easter Very Seriously.  All businesses are closed on Good Friday, some are open Saturday, and everything is again closed on Monday.  We didn't quite understand the impact until we saw the long line of cars lined up at the two gas stations Thursday  afternoon.  Bottom line is that our new hose package cannot be shipped until Tuesday morning, for Tuesday afternoon delivery;  Bahamas Air hauls no freight over the holiday.

While we were disappointed, as we can't move the boat or start the engine with the hydraulic system open such as it is, I'd also been watching the offshore weather forecasts and they are not amenable to offshore cruising, anyway.  There was a good chance we'd have been here till at least Tuesday, anyway, just out of sound judgement.  So here we sit roughing it; tied firmly and safely to the dock, as the winds blow steadily, plenty of room in our waste tank, with shore power and water and a liquor store at the end of the dock, until at least Wednesday.

Other cruisers must either be watching the weather or wanting to be in the marina for the holidays, as the nearly empty marina filled up as Thursday afternoon proceeded.

Our weather that had been darn hot has cooled to the 70s and, with the wind, is approaching long pants weather.  I've found many other projects to keep me busy, and mom said I couldn't do the blog until I filed our taxes.  Katie's and ours are now done, but have to do the other kids tomorrow.

Oh, by they way, no bronze plumbing fixtures could be found locally, so good thing I ordered the hose.  On a good note, the vinegar, some long thin zip ties, a few of my pipe cleaners, and a whole lot of soaking and elbow grease and the old heat exchanger is nearly as good as new and will make a great spare when I dry it out and put it all back together!  Yahoo. At least we have a fallback if the part never shows up.

Happy Easter to all!